Hi all,
Just to say I'm safe and only have a dose food poisoning to complain about. I was walking to the beach when the wave hit. The only time I will ever have dozens of bekini clad Swedish girls running towards me screaming....literally! (Ao Nang in Krabi is full of Swedish people...even the shops have swedish signs). Everyone was shouting run!!!!! run!!!! wave wave!!
My room mate was very lucky as she had been climbing with her rope man standing on the beach. He had to drop her and they ran for it. She made it by the skin of her teeth... the people behind her weren't as lucky. I had a long wait before she turned up having walked crawled and swum back which was a great relief as I was expecting a trip to the morg.. :o/ She's headed back to Bangkok now but I'm gonna stick around and wait for some friends who will be here for new yr.
I was due to dive on Ko Phi Phi but there was no room on the boat so I decided to go and take some pictures of the beautiful views from the rocks on the beach... I was on my way to get a bat whn the wave came. The boats are all match sticks now and th ons that aren't are in restaurant windows. I must say we were very lightly hit and extremely lucky. People from Phi Phi have been arriving here but a lot of hotels are empty due to cancelled holidays. The locals are obviously very upset. I'm nackered so I'm off for a nap now... the dodgey prawn curry has taken it's toll.
Merry Xmas and a happy new year to you all. Missing you lots,
Kaveh. X.
December 29, 2004
December 16, 2004
Cambodia
Dear all,
Well another email and another country has gone by in a flash. My last night in Saigon was great fun. Myself and a friend from the tour met up with my Vietnamese friend Vu and went out all day and evening enjoying the bike taxis in the traffic and the food and drink. We ate in a very cool place where they cook rice in clay pots, then smash them and through the hot ball of rice across the restaurante to another waitor. We finished off the evening in the market with a beer.
The next morning we were off at 5am after getting in at 1am for the 9 hour bus ride to Phnom Pen. The early start ensures a smoother border crossing. I was waiting for the rough ride I had heard about but it never really happened. I thought it was quite good!
There is some waiting around at the border and the door to the bus is pounced on by a heard of women with hands full of money all competing to buy your Vietnamese Dong and trade for Cambodian Rial. They are quite intimidating but the exchange rate is reasonable and it's a good way to change the money. They look a bit rough though and I don't think it's a lucrative trade... :0/
Once over the border you're struck by the difference in appearance of the people... they are darker and more indian looking and tougher looking. There is also a very strong difference in character. Vietnamese people come across as proud, strong, respectful, charming and happy. The Cambodians look desperate and a little damaged. As we drive further there is also a lack of scooters compared to Vietnam and surprisingly there are lots of very expensive 4x4's and Mercedes Benz!!! I'm confused...this supposed tobe more rugged and poorer that Vietnam. We come to a ferry to cross the river and there is a queue of these cars as well as lots of small children begging (we've been asked not to give them anything as this encourages them to depend on begging). Many of them are dissabled from mines.
The countryside is very flat compared to Vietnam where there is always a mountain within eyeshot. Getting closer to Phnom Pen more expensive cars drive through organised traffic and past proper petrol stations with modern buildings and large car dealerships with shiny Lexus, Toyota and Mercedes. It's a big surprise. Later that evening when we go out it becomes apparent that this country is backpacker central and I beging to miss Vietnam.
The next day we take a tour of the city and start with the Royal palace and temple Wat Nom. Tourists everywhere!!! Beggers too. We go for lunch to the bodhi tree which is full of backpackers trying to look as cool as possible. After lunch we cross the road and go straight into the Prison known as S21 where the Kmer Rouge tortured and killed. It's so weird to go from cool backpacker cafe to this. As we go around looking at the sells and walls of photos of the people killed... some people are obviously not coping with this very well. A lot of people are in tears and there is blood splattered all over the place, although some people seem to want the t-shirt. It's the beginning of a difficult afternoon as we move onto the killing fields. As we pull into the carpark a man with no legs is being beaten up horribly because he is drunk and has been begging. It's very hard to do nothing but interfering apparently makes things worse. We go into the killing fields and as we walk around there is clothing sticking out of the ground everywhere. I nearly step on a human jaw bone sticking out of the ground and there are bits of bone sticking out of the ground everywhere where they only partialy finished clearing the graves out. Tourists are wandering around snapping away and walking on everything and to be honest I'm starting to get pissed off cos it's like a theme park. A tower has been built which houses human skulls but it doesn't appear to be well looked after.
Time to leave and go back to Phnom Pen.
On day 3 we leave at 5am to get the boat the crosses the country to Siem Reap. It's a fantastic boat ride and the lake is massive taking 5 hours to cross in avery unstable speed boat bus thingy. It's a bit like a narrow boat with a very cool twin turbo V12 diesel in the back (I couldn't help having a look) that feels like it may capsize at any minute.
Arrival in the floating village on the outskirts of Siem Reap is insane. The boat gets swamped with people trying to sell you a taxi ride or carry your bags for money, and kids trying to get there hands on some spare food. They rifle the through the boat, which is again trying to capsize (I nearly fell in), for anything they can find. There are a lot of French tourists on the boat and I don't want to say anyhting about the French but they are all SOOO RUDE!! You sit anywhere but these guys all pay porters to sit in théir numbered seat and general bahve appallingly One in particular who makes my life difficult.... and then the boat owner's by putting his foot through a window and refusing to pay for it. In fact all the tourists have changed compared to the people we meet in Vietnam. They are alll backpackers or pensioner wannabe National Geographics. Cap, neckerchief, white photographers waist coat, shorts, hiking boots and a complete lack of spacial awareness. Yes I'm having a rant but it's actually really good fun and all part of the experience.
Siem Reap is even more of a backpacker zone than Phnom Pen. We go for lunch and walk into the Purple Pumpkin... it's a tippical south east asian dusty town with french architecture everywhere but the Purple Pumpkin is like walking into a really cool bar in Soho with modern minimalist furniture all in white and cillout beds with wireless network and amazing food (Black Ice tea is so good). I'm completely confused!
Next day we go off to Angkor Wat at 5 am for the sunrise. I won't go into detail... amazing, huge beautiful... go see it! The complex is massive with many other temples. Also the kids in the carpark are very funny! so buy something from them cos it's worth it just for the entertainment. Beware, they are much smarter than you or I. That evening we went to the mine museum to watch a play by the kids who live there, about the country's history. The museum is run by Akera who was trained by the Kmer Rouge to lay mines from the age of 5. He estimates he has layed 20,000 mines. He now spends all his money looking after children injured by mines and going out to clear mines himself. He has cleared many more than he has layed but still goes out every week to clear more.
This morning I said goodbye to the group who are going to Bangkok in a pickup truck... I was jealous, then I saw the truck!!! Good luck to em. I fly there tomorrow! ;0) Despite this email sounding negative Cambodia has been great fun but after Vietnam it is a little too cushy and just ver touristy and not what you expect at all. It's confusing and weird but then after what happened here it kind of makes sense. I like Cambodia but love Vietnam.
Missing you all, but not that much ;0)
Love, Kaveh.
Well another email and another country has gone by in a flash. My last night in Saigon was great fun. Myself and a friend from the tour met up with my Vietnamese friend Vu and went out all day and evening enjoying the bike taxis in the traffic and the food and drink. We ate in a very cool place where they cook rice in clay pots, then smash them and through the hot ball of rice across the restaurante to another waitor. We finished off the evening in the market with a beer.
The next morning we were off at 5am after getting in at 1am for the 9 hour bus ride to Phnom Pen. The early start ensures a smoother border crossing. I was waiting for the rough ride I had heard about but it never really happened. I thought it was quite good!
There is some waiting around at the border and the door to the bus is pounced on by a heard of women with hands full of money all competing to buy your Vietnamese Dong and trade for Cambodian Rial. They are quite intimidating but the exchange rate is reasonable and it's a good way to change the money. They look a bit rough though and I don't think it's a lucrative trade... :0/
Once over the border you're struck by the difference in appearance of the people... they are darker and more indian looking and tougher looking. There is also a very strong difference in character. Vietnamese people come across as proud, strong, respectful, charming and happy. The Cambodians look desperate and a little damaged. As we drive further there is also a lack of scooters compared to Vietnam and surprisingly there are lots of very expensive 4x4's and Mercedes Benz!!! I'm confused...this supposed tobe more rugged and poorer that Vietnam. We come to a ferry to cross the river and there is a queue of these cars as well as lots of small children begging (we've been asked not to give them anything as this encourages them to depend on begging). Many of them are dissabled from mines.
The countryside is very flat compared to Vietnam where there is always a mountain within eyeshot. Getting closer to Phnom Pen more expensive cars drive through organised traffic and past proper petrol stations with modern buildings and large car dealerships with shiny Lexus, Toyota and Mercedes. It's a big surprise. Later that evening when we go out it becomes apparent that this country is backpacker central and I beging to miss Vietnam.
The next day we take a tour of the city and start with the Royal palace and temple Wat Nom. Tourists everywhere!!! Beggers too. We go for lunch to the bodhi tree which is full of backpackers trying to look as cool as possible. After lunch we cross the road and go straight into the Prison known as S21 where the Kmer Rouge tortured and killed. It's so weird to go from cool backpacker cafe to this. As we go around looking at the sells and walls of photos of the people killed... some people are obviously not coping with this very well. A lot of people are in tears and there is blood splattered all over the place, although some people seem to want the t-shirt. It's the beginning of a difficult afternoon as we move onto the killing fields. As we pull into the carpark a man with no legs is being beaten up horribly because he is drunk and has been begging. It's very hard to do nothing but interfering apparently makes things worse. We go into the killing fields and as we walk around there is clothing sticking out of the ground everywhere. I nearly step on a human jaw bone sticking out of the ground and there are bits of bone sticking out of the ground everywhere where they only partialy finished clearing the graves out. Tourists are wandering around snapping away and walking on everything and to be honest I'm starting to get pissed off cos it's like a theme park. A tower has been built which houses human skulls but it doesn't appear to be well looked after.
Time to leave and go back to Phnom Pen.
On day 3 we leave at 5am to get the boat the crosses the country to Siem Reap. It's a fantastic boat ride and the lake is massive taking 5 hours to cross in avery unstable speed boat bus thingy. It's a bit like a narrow boat with a very cool twin turbo V12 diesel in the back (I couldn't help having a look) that feels like it may capsize at any minute.
Arrival in the floating village on the outskirts of Siem Reap is insane. The boat gets swamped with people trying to sell you a taxi ride or carry your bags for money, and kids trying to get there hands on some spare food. They rifle the through the boat, which is again trying to capsize (I nearly fell in), for anything they can find. There are a lot of French tourists on the boat and I don't want to say anyhting about the French but they are all SOOO RUDE!! You sit anywhere but these guys all pay porters to sit in théir numbered seat and general bahve appallingly One in particular who makes my life difficult.... and then the boat owner's by putting his foot through a window and refusing to pay for it. In fact all the tourists have changed compared to the people we meet in Vietnam. They are alll backpackers or pensioner wannabe National Geographics. Cap, neckerchief, white photographers waist coat, shorts, hiking boots and a complete lack of spacial awareness. Yes I'm having a rant but it's actually really good fun and all part of the experience.
Siem Reap is even more of a backpacker zone than Phnom Pen. We go for lunch and walk into the Purple Pumpkin... it's a tippical south east asian dusty town with french architecture everywhere but the Purple Pumpkin is like walking into a really cool bar in Soho with modern minimalist furniture all in white and cillout beds with wireless network and amazing food (Black Ice tea is so good). I'm completely confused!
Next day we go off to Angkor Wat at 5 am for the sunrise. I won't go into detail... amazing, huge beautiful... go see it! The complex is massive with many other temples. Also the kids in the carpark are very funny! so buy something from them cos it's worth it just for the entertainment. Beware, they are much smarter than you or I. That evening we went to the mine museum to watch a play by the kids who live there, about the country's history. The museum is run by Akera who was trained by the Kmer Rouge to lay mines from the age of 5. He estimates he has layed 20,000 mines. He now spends all his money looking after children injured by mines and going out to clear mines himself. He has cleared many more than he has layed but still goes out every week to clear more.
This morning I said goodbye to the group who are going to Bangkok in a pickup truck... I was jealous, then I saw the truck!!! Good luck to em. I fly there tomorrow! ;0) Despite this email sounding negative Cambodia has been great fun but after Vietnam it is a little too cushy and just ver touristy and not what you expect at all. It's confusing and weird but then after what happened here it kind of makes sense. I like Cambodia but love Vietnam.
Missing you all, but not that much ;0)
Love, Kaveh.
December 09, 2004
More Vietnam
Hello again,
As my time in Vietnam is finishing I have some time to write again.... thank goodness as it is all fresh in the mind. In my last email I was in Na Trang on my way to Whale Island. As we asrrived in Whale island it was still raining after a very nice drive. Whale Island is a small resort island owned by a Frenchman and his Vietnamese wife. It takes about 60 guests and is very pretty with white sand palm trees and blue water. We arrived for lunch and as we ate lunch the rain stopped and the sun came out... and I mean it really came out. 30 degrees with a sea breeze and 28 degree water! MMmmmm.
Everyone relaxed and had a swim and enjoyed the food and a sleep. We slept in bamboo bungalows which was so nice... ytou could hear the sea all night and the insect chirping. The next morning a group of us went to the reef (it's a bit rich to call it a reef... a few rocks and some coral) for a snorkel. This was great fun and the water was perfect. Lots of clown fish (Nemo).
We went back for lunch, meals were served in a bamboo shelter over looking the beach. Most of the group played games on the beach after lunch. I went for a siesta which I had only planned for 30 mins but which went on for 3 hours. The island was a great place to rest and be away from the crazy cities and most people would have happily stayed longer that the 3 days we had but upon arriving back at Na Trang I was realy happy to be back in husstle of proper Vietnam.
We had one more night in Na Trang where we ate at the Sailing club on the beach. This is very expensive by Vietnamese standards at about 3 pounds with most meals costing about 1 pound and it was excellent. The relaxation was soon over as we had to catch the reunification express to Ho Chi Minh over night, soft sleeper this time and I find that I would rather be on the hard as it's cleaner. In Ho Chi Minh or Saigon as the centre is known to locals, I met up with Vu a friend from London and we went out for the afternoon and evening. He got his friends to take us everywhere on motorbike taxi and we went all over district 1. It was great to see the town like this and too get away from the group too. After the pagodas, Ice coffee, head massage, hair cut, and dinner we went to a local bar and had the local beer. I was the only non Vietnamese person at most of the places he took me which was cool. Lonely Planet has got this city all wrong!!!
Next morning was an early start on a bus to the Mekong Delta. After the bus we boarded a boat and toured the delta and local businesses all day. This ranged from tile making to pottery, but mostly farming with something like 80% of Vietnams produce coming from this area which takes up 10% of the country. In the evening we stayed with a family in a dorm they run on a river. The Mekong Delta is basically an extremely fertile swamp area interconnected by rivers acting as roads. It reminded me of the Grand Union canal and spending the summer on Jon's boat. Just a lot more humid!!! I'm actually enjoying the humidity.
In the morning another early start took us by boat to the water market and to watch the locals making rice paper which I had a go at and also sweets and pop corn. This was great fun! Vietnamese people work and eat all the time!! I haven't mentioned the poverty but this is a poor country. There are hardly any beggers though which is a strange contrast to London with dozens of beggers down Tottenham Court Road.
Anyway... I'm in Saigon till the day after tomorrow where as part of a slightly different group I'll be leaving for Cambodia for 1 week. I'll be going solo once we reach Siem Reap and Angkor though which I'm looking forward to now. I like the people in my group a lot but I am starting to crave my own schedule and pace (and so is the Hasselblad... note to Adri ;)...).
I hope you're all well and miss you all.... keep in touch. It's good to hear from people.
Lots of love,
Kaveh.
As my time in Vietnam is finishing I have some time to write again.... thank goodness as it is all fresh in the mind. In my last email I was in Na Trang on my way to Whale Island. As we asrrived in Whale island it was still raining after a very nice drive. Whale Island is a small resort island owned by a Frenchman and his Vietnamese wife. It takes about 60 guests and is very pretty with white sand palm trees and blue water. We arrived for lunch and as we ate lunch the rain stopped and the sun came out... and I mean it really came out. 30 degrees with a sea breeze and 28 degree water! MMmmmm.
Everyone relaxed and had a swim and enjoyed the food and a sleep. We slept in bamboo bungalows which was so nice... ytou could hear the sea all night and the insect chirping. The next morning a group of us went to the reef (it's a bit rich to call it a reef... a few rocks and some coral) for a snorkel. This was great fun and the water was perfect. Lots of clown fish (Nemo).
We went back for lunch, meals were served in a bamboo shelter over looking the beach. Most of the group played games on the beach after lunch. I went for a siesta which I had only planned for 30 mins but which went on for 3 hours. The island was a great place to rest and be away from the crazy cities and most people would have happily stayed longer that the 3 days we had but upon arriving back at Na Trang I was realy happy to be back in husstle of proper Vietnam.
We had one more night in Na Trang where we ate at the Sailing club on the beach. This is very expensive by Vietnamese standards at about 3 pounds with most meals costing about 1 pound and it was excellent. The relaxation was soon over as we had to catch the reunification express to Ho Chi Minh over night, soft sleeper this time and I find that I would rather be on the hard as it's cleaner. In Ho Chi Minh or Saigon as the centre is known to locals, I met up with Vu a friend from London and we went out for the afternoon and evening. He got his friends to take us everywhere on motorbike taxi and we went all over district 1. It was great to see the town like this and too get away from the group too. After the pagodas, Ice coffee, head massage, hair cut, and dinner we went to a local bar and had the local beer. I was the only non Vietnamese person at most of the places he took me which was cool. Lonely Planet has got this city all wrong!!!
Next morning was an early start on a bus to the Mekong Delta. After the bus we boarded a boat and toured the delta and local businesses all day. This ranged from tile making to pottery, but mostly farming with something like 80% of Vietnams produce coming from this area which takes up 10% of the country. In the evening we stayed with a family in a dorm they run on a river. The Mekong Delta is basically an extremely fertile swamp area interconnected by rivers acting as roads. It reminded me of the Grand Union canal and spending the summer on Jon's boat. Just a lot more humid!!! I'm actually enjoying the humidity.
In the morning another early start took us by boat to the water market and to watch the locals making rice paper which I had a go at and also sweets and pop corn. This was great fun! Vietnamese people work and eat all the time!! I haven't mentioned the poverty but this is a poor country. There are hardly any beggers though which is a strange contrast to London with dozens of beggers down Tottenham Court Road.
Anyway... I'm in Saigon till the day after tomorrow where as part of a slightly different group I'll be leaving for Cambodia for 1 week. I'll be going solo once we reach Siem Reap and Angkor though which I'm looking forward to now. I like the people in my group a lot but I am starting to crave my own schedule and pace (and so is the Hasselblad... note to Adri ;)...).
I hope you're all well and miss you all.... keep in touch. It's good to hear from people.
Lots of love,
Kaveh.
Singapore to Vietnam
Dear all,
Well it has been a bit busy for the last 2 weeks!!! I fine and well and have just gotten back from the tailors in Hoi Anh to get some clothes made... Anyway the story so far:
I landed in Singapore 2 weeks ago and spent a night there which was enough time to eat and walk around a little. Singapore is like Selfridges, Harrods and Oxford St on steroids with a Swedish cleaning company! Very clean, very efficient and with great weather... it was 32 degrees. It also has massive Xmas decorations with big musical xmas trees. One night didn't seems enough as although many people don't rate Singapore I think it probably deserves a little more exploring... maybe on my next stop. (Seems like ages ago now).
I landed in Hanoi a day later and was relieved to find that a transit had been booked and I was driven straight to the hotel through some very poor countryside. It looked quite run down. The driving and traffic became a little mad and after Singapore it was quite a shock. I was really jet lagged and so when I checked into the hotel I went to sleep. When I woke up it was evening and as I stept out for a walk I must admit I was a little intimidated by the atmosphere.... it was very dark with lots of side allies and noise and I clung onto my belongings as I walked through the old quarter where I was based. It was dry cool and very sunny...PERFECT! The whole place runs on Honda C90's and you are asked if you want to hire a motorbike taxi at every corner. After a walk round the lake and dinner I went back to the hotel wondering if I was happy to be there. I didn't sleep that night and trhe next morning I decided to go out a 6am and walk around. This turned out to be a great idea as the town had not woken up fully and as I walked the city began to wake up so I could slowly get used to the madness that is Hanoi!!! The people doing there excersizes by the lake in te morning is great and as the town wakes up it changes throughout the day. You soon learn that saying no with a smile has a great effect and people smile back with a big grin and leave you a lone (you get hasstled a fair bit but as you get used to it it becomes 2nd nature).
After exploring Hanoi for a couple of days I found that it is very much like Tehran! Justa replace taxis with scooters! I met up with the group I would be touring Vietnam with and found that I was very lucky to get suck a great bunch of people and by now was very relaxed with in Hanoi, especially the old quarter.
After 4 days we left Hanoi with a guide and went off to the Hoa Binh province for a 2 day trek over 25 kms in the hilltribes. The first day was easy but as we arrived at the first tribe 1 of us showed signs of food poisoning... 1 then became 3 as the night went on including myself and a honeymoon couple!...That night we all froze...it was soooo cold. The next morning the other 2 ill people went on by jeep but I decided to give it a go although I felt awful by now and the sanitary conditions were pretty disgusting... I won't go into detail but the experience of going to the toilet made 1 person vomit. As we walked my condition got much worse... the walk was very steep and downhill for 8 hours and I could not eat of keep any food in me at all. We reached a village after 6 hours and I was totally gone so I got a bike ride to the homestay village where we would spend the night. A tiny girl on a Honda C90 drove me across some pretty demanding roads like it was a trip to school and I was so greatful to get to the stilted house and collapse into a waiting bed... the hospitality was amazing. The honeymooners turned up at the same time after a 3 hour jeep and scooter ride which had taken it's toll. We all died!!
I had pretty bad dissintary now and was very weak and tired. I didn't eat and was so sick of going to the toilet...but somehow still glad to be there.
The next morning I managed a pancake and began the 2nd 10km walk, this time much easier. The group were great and I was looked after well. This is also where I found out that 'Kaveh' means prostitute or street girl in Vietnamese. The walk was good but I was struggling with food and just carried on because the villages were so great and the tribal people so sweet especially the children who shouted hello all the time.
We got to the bus and then were on our way back to Hanoi... such a relief. In Hanoi we had 2 a free day the next day and I began to recover quite quickly. The following day we departed for Hoa Long bay. The weather wasn't great and despite my illness I missed the hilltribe areas. Hoa Long bay was relaxing though and we went Kayaking and played cards and got very drunk on the local rice wine.... WOW!!! I nearly went blind! Hoa Long bay was a short stop and the weather was not so great with wind and rain and it was pretty cool.... cold.
When we arrive back at Hanoi we were greated with the news thatTyphoons had caused severe flooding in central Vietnam and that our night train to Hue was cancelled. This was dissapointing as we were all keen to get out of Hanoi... (it's great but it can drive you a little mad). Fortunately our tour leader Noah, had a friend who lived in a small farming village which rarely saw foreigners (who they call potatos by the way) and had invited us to come over. This was a very rare and fortunate opertuntiy to see the real Vietnam.
I've just type a whole section and lost it as the internet is not good so i'll retype in brief. After the village we managed to get the train to Hue (which is not worth a mention) and then a bus the following day from Hue to Hoi An passing through a fantastic moutainous drive, Da Nang and also China beach. On arrivla in Hoi An we all went to the tailors for our fitting and over the next 2 days enjoyed having our clothes made and walking around the relaxed market town.
I am now in Na Trang having made the 9 hour train ride from Hoi An where I started writing this, to Na Trang where we will get the bus to Whale Island in the morning. I'm not home sick yet but it has been raining a lot and amd keen to move on to somewhere new with maybe some better weather. I am really enjoying Vietnam though and would lobve to come back again at a slower pace. Hanoi is great and the hill tribes were wonderful.
I miss you all,
Love,
Kaveh.
Well it has been a bit busy for the last 2 weeks!!! I fine and well and have just gotten back from the tailors in Hoi Anh to get some clothes made... Anyway the story so far:
I landed in Singapore 2 weeks ago and spent a night there which was enough time to eat and walk around a little. Singapore is like Selfridges, Harrods and Oxford St on steroids with a Swedish cleaning company! Very clean, very efficient and with great weather... it was 32 degrees. It also has massive Xmas decorations with big musical xmas trees. One night didn't seems enough as although many people don't rate Singapore I think it probably deserves a little more exploring... maybe on my next stop. (Seems like ages ago now).
I landed in Hanoi a day later and was relieved to find that a transit had been booked and I was driven straight to the hotel through some very poor countryside. It looked quite run down. The driving and traffic became a little mad and after Singapore it was quite a shock. I was really jet lagged and so when I checked into the hotel I went to sleep. When I woke up it was evening and as I stept out for a walk I must admit I was a little intimidated by the atmosphere.... it was very dark with lots of side allies and noise and I clung onto my belongings as I walked through the old quarter where I was based. It was dry cool and very sunny...PERFECT! The whole place runs on Honda C90's and you are asked if you want to hire a motorbike taxi at every corner. After a walk round the lake and dinner I went back to the hotel wondering if I was happy to be there. I didn't sleep that night and trhe next morning I decided to go out a 6am and walk around. This turned out to be a great idea as the town had not woken up fully and as I walked the city began to wake up so I could slowly get used to the madness that is Hanoi!!! The people doing there excersizes by the lake in te morning is great and as the town wakes up it changes throughout the day. You soon learn that saying no with a smile has a great effect and people smile back with a big grin and leave you a lone (you get hasstled a fair bit but as you get used to it it becomes 2nd nature).
After exploring Hanoi for a couple of days I found that it is very much like Tehran! Justa replace taxis with scooters! I met up with the group I would be touring Vietnam with and found that I was very lucky to get suck a great bunch of people and by now was very relaxed with in Hanoi, especially the old quarter.
After 4 days we left Hanoi with a guide and went off to the Hoa Binh province for a 2 day trek over 25 kms in the hilltribes. The first day was easy but as we arrived at the first tribe 1 of us showed signs of food poisoning... 1 then became 3 as the night went on including myself and a honeymoon couple!...That night we all froze...it was soooo cold. The next morning the other 2 ill people went on by jeep but I decided to give it a go although I felt awful by now and the sanitary conditions were pretty disgusting... I won't go into detail but the experience of going to the toilet made 1 person vomit. As we walked my condition got much worse... the walk was very steep and downhill for 8 hours and I could not eat of keep any food in me at all. We reached a village after 6 hours and I was totally gone so I got a bike ride to the homestay village where we would spend the night. A tiny girl on a Honda C90 drove me across some pretty demanding roads like it was a trip to school and I was so greatful to get to the stilted house and collapse into a waiting bed... the hospitality was amazing. The honeymooners turned up at the same time after a 3 hour jeep and scooter ride which had taken it's toll. We all died!!
I had pretty bad dissintary now and was very weak and tired. I didn't eat and was so sick of going to the toilet...but somehow still glad to be there.
The next morning I managed a pancake and began the 2nd 10km walk, this time much easier. The group were great and I was looked after well. This is also where I found out that 'Kaveh' means prostitute or street girl in Vietnamese. The walk was good but I was struggling with food and just carried on because the villages were so great and the tribal people so sweet especially the children who shouted hello all the time.
We got to the bus and then were on our way back to Hanoi... such a relief. In Hanoi we had 2 a free day the next day and I began to recover quite quickly. The following day we departed for Hoa Long bay. The weather wasn't great and despite my illness I missed the hilltribe areas. Hoa Long bay was relaxing though and we went Kayaking and played cards and got very drunk on the local rice wine.... WOW!!! I nearly went blind! Hoa Long bay was a short stop and the weather was not so great with wind and rain and it was pretty cool.... cold.
When we arrive back at Hanoi we were greated with the news thatTyphoons had caused severe flooding in central Vietnam and that our night train to Hue was cancelled. This was dissapointing as we were all keen to get out of Hanoi... (it's great but it can drive you a little mad). Fortunately our tour leader Noah, had a friend who lived in a small farming village which rarely saw foreigners (who they call potatos by the way) and had invited us to come over. This was a very rare and fortunate opertuntiy to see the real Vietnam.
I've just type a whole section and lost it as the internet is not good so i'll retype in brief. After the village we managed to get the train to Hue (which is not worth a mention) and then a bus the following day from Hue to Hoi An passing through a fantastic moutainous drive, Da Nang and also China beach. On arrivla in Hoi An we all went to the tailors for our fitting and over the next 2 days enjoyed having our clothes made and walking around the relaxed market town.
I am now in Na Trang having made the 9 hour train ride from Hoi An where I started writing this, to Na Trang where we will get the bus to Whale Island in the morning. I'm not home sick yet but it has been raining a lot and amd keen to move on to somewhere new with maybe some better weather. I am really enjoying Vietnam though and would lobve to come back again at a slower pace. Hanoi is great and the hill tribes were wonderful.
I miss you all,
Love,
Kaveh.
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